Xàtiva

Xàtiva (pronounced “SHA-ti-va” in Valencian) is one of the most historically significant towns near Valencia — birthplace of two Borgia popes, site of a two-kilometre hilltop castle, and 40 minutes away on a direct Cercanías train. It’s the most accessible inland day trip from Valencia, and one of the few that genuinely rewards even a half-day visit.

Getting to Xàtiva from Valencia

The C2 Cercanías line runs from Valencia Nord (also called Estació del Nord) directly to Xàtiva’s station. Trains run roughly every 30–60 minutes; the journey takes 38–42 minutes. A single fare costs around €3.60–€4.20 depending on the tariff zone — there is no reservation required. The town centre and castle access are both walkable from the station (15 minutes on flat ground to the old town, then a further 25–30 minute uphill walk to the lower castle, or a shuttle bus in summer).

If you prefer a guided experience with transport sorted, organised day trips depart from Valencia every day:

The complete Xàtiva experience from Valencia includes castle admission, a museum visit and a guide — a straightforward choice if you want context alongside the views.

Driving takes around 55 minutes on the AP-7 motorway (toll: approx €5–7 one way). Parking near the castle entrance is limited in peak months.

The castle: what you are actually looking at

The Castillo de Xàtiva is not a single structure — it is two connected fortresses strung across a limestone ridge 120 metres above the town. The lower castle (Castillo Menor) dates from Iberian and Roman periods, heavily modified under Moorish rule and then Christian reconquista. The upper castle (Castillo Mayor) was expanded in the 12th–14th centuries and contains a better-preserved section of walls and towers.

Entry to the castle costs €3 for adults (as of 2025; confirm on-site). You can walk up from the town (30–40 minutes from the town hall area) or take a small shuttle bus (Castell Bus, ~€1.50, operates in summer and weekends). The walk back down offers a different perspective and passes the Hermitage of Sant Feliu.

The views from the upper battlements take in the entire Albufera coastal plain on clear days, and the Serra Vernissa to the west. In haze or summer heat, expect limited visibility.

One fixture worth knowing about: in the Arxiu Municipal (town museum, Carrer de la Corretgeria, adjacent to the castle approach), there hangs an inverted portrait of Felipe V. After Xàtiva was razed and renamed “San Felipe” by that king following the War of Spanish Succession (1707), the town later flipped his portrait upside down as permanent protest. The portrait still hangs inverted today.

Xàtiva and the Borgias: what’s real, what’s myth

Two popes were born in Xàtiva: Alfons de Borja (Pope Calixtus III, 1455–58) and Roderic de Borja (Pope Alexander VI, 1492–1503). The latter fathered Cesare Borgia and Lucrezia Borgia — figures that inspired Machiavelli’s The Prince and several TV series.

The connection is genuine but sometimes oversold by tour operators. What you will actually find in Xàtiva: the Museu de l’Almodí houses a Borgia room with period portraits and documents. There is no “Borgia palace” you can enter — the family’s original structures did not survive. The Collegiate Church of Santa María (14th–16th century, still partly under construction) is worth entering for its Gothic nave and retablos.

A private Xàtiva castle tour with transfer from Valencia allows more time with a guide to cover the Borgia history specifically — better for groups.

The old town: beyond the castle

Xàtiva’s lower town is genuinely pleasant for a couple of hours. The main street, Carrer Moncada, runs through the old Muslim quarter. The Almudí market square has a 16th-century arcade. La Seu (the collegiate church) is on the northern edge of the old quarter — free entry, though donations are welcomed.

Practical tips:

• Avoid the “tourist menu” restaurants directly on the main plaza near the town hall — mark-up is significant. Walk 2–3 streets back for better value.
• Bar Restaurante Pous (Carrer de la Corretgeria area) and Casa La Abuela are better options for lunch, with menus del día around €12–14.
• The covered market (Mercat Municipal) on Plaça del Mercat is open Tuesday–Sunday mornings.

Combining Xàtiva with other stops

Xàtiva pairs naturally with Anna (another 20 km south, accessible by road), where the so-called “Anna’s Alhambra” water gardens and three waterfalls make a half-day addition. The Valencia–Xàtiva–Anna day trip covers both in a single organised excursion.

You can also combine Xàtiva (morning, train) with an afternoon in the Albufera if you drive: the lake is 60 km north-east of Xàtiva via the V-31.

See the full Xàtiva day trip guide for a timed itinerary and transport details. For train-based day trips generally, the day trips by train guide covers multiple options from Valencia. For a multi-day road loop, the Xàtiva–Gandia road trip itinerary adds beaches and southern towns to a two-day circuit.

When not to go

Late July through August: the castle hike in full sun at 35–40°C is genuinely unpleasant and potentially dangerous for children or older visitors without proper hydration. If you must visit in summer, start early (castle opens at 10:00) and be descending by midday. The shuttle bus helps.

The other caveat: on Spanish public holidays (especially Easter week, August long weekends), the town is popular with Valencians on day trips. The castle can feel crowded on those days; the train back may require standing room.

Practical information

• Train: Valencia Nord → Xàtiva (C2 line), ~40 min, ~€4 each way, no booking required
• Castle hours: Tues–Sun 10:00–18:00 (summer until 20:00); closed Monday
• Castle entry: Adults ~€3, under-12 free; shuttle bus ~€1.50 extra
• Town museum (Almodí): Tues–Fri 10:00–14:00 and 16:00–18:00, weekends 10:00–14:00
• Tourist office: Plaça del Mercat — can provide a free printed map

Frequently asked questions about Xàtiva

Is Xàtiva worth visiting from Valencia?

Yes, particularly for travellers interested in medieval history or who want an inland day trip without needing a car. The castle is one of the better-preserved in the Valencia region, the train journey is short and cheap, and the old town adds 2–3 hours of quiet exploration. It won’t suit everyone — there are no beaches, and the main attraction requires a 30-minute uphill walk.

How much time do I need in Xàtiva?

Four to five hours comfortably covers the castle (including the walk up, a visit, and the walk back), the town museum, and lunch in the old town. If you also want to visit the collegiate church and browse the market, budget six to seven hours — which effectively makes it a full-day trip.

Can I visit Xàtiva without a tour?

Entirely, and most independent travellers do. The C2 train is direct, the castle is signposted from the station, and entry is ticketed at the gate. A guidebook or audio guide app provides context. Organised tours add transport convenience and a guide’s commentary on Borgia history — useful but not required.

What is the inverted portrait of Felipe V?

After the War of Spanish Succession (1707–1709), King Felipe V ordered Xàtiva to be burned and its citizens dispersed as punishment for supporting the rival Habsburg cause. The town was later rebuilt and renamed “San Felipe.” As a long-standing act of defiance, the town’s museum displays a portrait of Felipe V hung upside down. The practice has continued as a cultural statement for over three centuries.

Is the castle walk suitable for children?

The path from the old town to the lower castle is steep and partly cobbled — manageable for most children over 8, though the surface is uneven. The upper castle involves further climbing on rougher terrain. The shuttle bus eliminates the ascent. Bring water regardless of season.

What should I eat in Xàtiva?

The local speciality is arròs amb fesols i naps (rice with white beans and turnips), a peasant dish that predates Valencia’s more famous paella. It appears on most local restaurant menus in winter; summer menus may substitute it with lighter options. Avoid the tourist-facing restaurants on the main plaza — prices are 30–40% higher for no quality difference.

Can I combine Xàtiva and the Albufera in one day?

Yes, by car — Xàtiva in the morning, Albufera for a late afternoon boat trip, return to Valencia for dinner. By public transport it’s awkward: from Xàtiva you’d need to return to Valencia and then take Bus 24 or 25 to the Albufera, which adds travel time. Organised tours combining both exist — see the Xàtiva Castle and Albufera private tour.